This collection marked a turning point for Hussein Chalayan. In a sharp departure from his previous experimental, objet-like approach to clothing design, he explored the theme of “how individuals shape themselves within society.” Through essential tailoring techniques—specifically, classic tailoring—he addressed and incorporated the relationship between the body and clothing into his designs. This piece—a hybrid between a jacket and a coat crafted from thick, high-quality wool melton—appears as if a vest were layered over a jacket; furthermore, the fact that this element is constructed as a single piece with the high-neck collar is a highlight of both the design and pattern-making.
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